Wire Splicing Safety Precautions


The average Fire Marshall may not approve of repairing electrical appliances by means of wire splicing and electrical tape, but people do it anyway. Most tradesmen, hobbyists and brainiacs can usually execute a competent wire splice, but it is always important to consider specific facts such as: what the device is for, if it is stationary,and what the wattage rating is. Appliances which consume high wattage can contract enough heat at the point of splice to melt ordinary electrical tape.



High wattage appliances such as heaters draw a lot of current from the power source thus creating excessive heat on the wires. This heat tends to accumulate at the area which has been spliced along with other junctions. When splicing wires together on high wattage appliances, mere electrical tape is simply not safe. The heat at the spliced junction will cause the rubber tape to melt which can, in turn, cause the two wires, (hot and neutral), to arch, throw a breaker/fuze,  or cause a fire or shock.

If you currently have any heaters running with a basic electric tape splice, you should up- grade to a wire nut or butt connector to avoid  potential hazards.




A butt connecter (left) is typically used on slim wire, but is available for 16# and 18# AWG. The  ends of the two wires are twisted with a lineman’s pliers, or substitute tool, and fit within the connector. The butt connectors are then crimped with a tool to ensure a good connection. There should be little or no exposed wire outside the connector.

A standard wire nut (right) is simpler and doesn’t require crimping. The wires are twisted clockwise as the threads within the wire nuts also clockwise.

Electric tape shold be used over both type of connectors to enure a safe connection.

Thank you for reading, and remember; be smart-be safe!






Wire Splicing Safety Precautions

Worn out Screw Holes on Steel Door frame.



door1      This 32’ X 80” solid wood door with steel plating is known to be at least forty years old- according to the tenant. Throughout the course of the years, the concentrated stress on the top hinge had caused the wood inside the frame to split into pieces. An attempt had been made to repair the door with plastic anchors and epoxy, but the empty cavity offered no surface for the screws to bite.

As a last ditch effort to temporarily rectify the door so it will close without a major hassle, a small piece of lumber was installed behind the hinge. Replacing the entire frame is an extensive repair, however extracting and replacing the section of splintered wood within the frame is ordinarily a neat and easy task.




The remnants of the old wood was removed with a carpenter’s chisel. When the cavity was cleared,  a section of douglas fir was milled on a table saw to achieve a tight fit within the frame. The surface behind the frame is brick; a hammer drill with tap com fasteners was used to mount the customized nub. A strong construction adhesive was also used.




1” course screws were fastened in all four locations. If they become loose and over the next few years, wider thread screws can be used for replacement.

There is certainly no guarantee that the repair will hold up for the next forty years, but the door should function well enough- at least until the inevitable replacement of the ancient fossil hammered out relic of an apartment entry door and frame.





Worn out Screw Holes on Steel Door frame.

Wood Putty and Wood Glue Make a Formidable Compound

Wood glue with diluted water can enhance a wood putty formula in many ways. It can increase adhesion, tensile strength, and flexibility. The formula won’t shrink and is less likely to crack. Another benefit is that the compound is paintable/stainable.

Simply add wood glue to the mixing water and stir thoroughly. The ratio can vary, but you can easily judge your mix by the color and consistency of the water.

After the glue-water is stirred, add the powdered putty and mix well.


The oak saddle which divides the wood floor from the ceramic tile is sitting on an un-level surface. The saddle had to be raised an inch and a half on the left side in order to be flush with the tile. After some wood shims and finishing nails were installed, the wood putty/wood glue mix was used to fill the entire gap between the oak divider and the floor. (Tape was used to mask it off.)

The saddle and the wood putty were both stained with the same color: Golden Oak.

When the heavy-set new tenants moved in, they initially gave the whole apartment the stomp test. So far the repair has held up.


Wood Putty and Wood Glue Make a Formidable Compound

Annoying Doorknob Holes

A Quick fix for those annoying doorknob holes

It makes no sense to spackle over a doorknob hole when the metal knob continues to make contact with the soft gypsum. This problem can be easily rectified with a few common items likely to be found on the bottom of any average tool box: An  anchor, a pan head screw, and a flat washer.


Simply ream a hole at the exact location where the knob strikes the wall with a drill bit or hand tool. The diameter of the hole should accommodate the anchor being used. The anchor should not be loose, nor should it be too snug. You want to be able to hand push ninety percent of the anchor into the hole and tap the remaining section flush with the wall using a tool, or piece of scrap wood.

If you wish to paint the wall guard to match the existing walls, be sure to use a metal based primer.

*  If the knob strikes the wall guard with excessive force,  that knob is more likely to sustain damage from impact. It is recommended that you avoid slamming doors whenever possible.



Annoying Doorknob Holes

12 V. PV panel W. Batteries


This is a 20 w. 12 v. poly crystalline PV panel, the dimensions are roughly 14×36 (inches). The two story, flat roof building provides an ideal location for the solar panel. The panel is slightly elevated to provide air flow across the bottom, to prevent overheating. An 18 AWG wire is fed to the backyard of the building, where it  charges a 12 volt battery during daylight hours.





The battery above is an 18 volt lith-ion, salvaged from a Ryobi cell that went bad.  I’m able to make use of the  cells because the problem was in the circuitry.  Although it’s rated at 18 V., it stills charges to near full capacity with the 12 V solar panel. I always have the option to remove a a cell to bring the rating down if it fails to hold a charge satisfactorily. The V. rating was recorded during overcast; in full sunlight it peaks at 22 V.


This  LED snake light was a freebie. No one else wanted it because the base was cracked. I installed a new base from a salvaged piece of limestone. With a little bit of drilling, and some simple hardware, I managed to retrofit the lamp to accommodate a 12 V battery. (I removed the original circuitry which rectified house hold AC current to DC current. After that I was good to go.)  This battery is a 12 V. nickle-cadmium, with 2 A. capacity.




After a few initial experiments, I realized I needed to add a current limiting diode to the positive lead on the desklight, due to extensive overheating. The 12 V. battery actually melted the plastic shroud clear off the lamp, but with the limiter in place, I can even use the 18 V. cell without further damage from excessive heat.


I’ve had the system together for a few weeks, and am very satisfied with the results. On a sunny day, the batteries power the lamp for approximately half the time it takes to charge them. Ten hours charge equals five hours of light. Although it’s a crude system that surely lacks tight efficiency, the charge rate is greater than I thought it would be.










12 V. PV panel W. Batteries

How to clear hairy tub drains


Hair has a tendency to get trapped within the strainer mount, and can get treacherously tangled while accumulating waxy, soap residue. A pair of needlenose pliers can remove the gruesome hairball quick and easily.

1) Remove strainer. Insert the pliers into the obstruction while grasping a section of the tangled hair.

2) Twist the pliers around in one direction until the bulk of the hairball wraps around the tool.







Sometimes a secondary set of pliers can be used to grab the remaining blob- if the primary tool fails to grab it all.

After the clog has been removed, the drain should be gravity flushed with warm water. (5 gallon bucket works fine.)

Be sure not to lose the strainer mounting screw; if it does manage to disappear, replace only with brass or galvanized. (A ordinary steel screw will rust and become very difficult to remove in the future. )

Sell out sell out

Sell out, sell out


Sell out, sell out, on the hill

Sniffing coke through a hundred dollar bill

Puppet of a puppet of an ancient slave master

-the covert order of everlasting disaster

Pariah, imposter, mercenary, shill

Isn’t it a bitter pill


They scribe the numbers of hell ‘cross the sky

You claim indifference, yet you have two good eyes

The humanoid drones which serve the dark forces

Have had their DNA severely altered


With usery and skumbaggery, they have brought

The world to its knees

Destroyers of joy, a cancer to creation

There’s nothing left but a living damnation


The children of the twilight have been poisoned since birth,

Prodded, shackled, branded and labeled

Sent off to study the doctrines of hate

And fostered to worship material things


Shyster, deceiver, molester and bankster

A false messiah for a new world gangster

The rascals they gather beneath the tower but,

You know they would rather search for new worlds to devour


Sell out, sell out, on the hill

Sniffing coke through a twenty dollar bill

‘oh my poor misguided brother,

Why would you wish to be

A traitor to humanity

How will thou fare for the harvest of souls

Will Heaven have you even still,

Sell out, sell out, on the hill


Sell out sell out